LFG is on the home stretch of the school year and we are in the midst of planning vacations. Surely one of our first vacation weeks will be spent at home...with my mama. Shut up.
Lilly Pulitzer Meets Loretta Lynn...That’s how I’d characterize the town of my upbringing. I posted my LFG-Mom Charleston sortie first-realizing that a post focused more precisely on my hometown would be decidedly down-market. I enjoyed growing up in a southern town of about fifteen thousand. It was stereotypical in its small-ish town character and today it suffers from the typical ennui and malaise that a lot of provincial little spots endure.
My hometown hasn’t spawned too many famous people. Harry Carson-the NFL Hall of Famer-New York Giant grew up there. Larry McMurtry of Lonesome Dove fame married a gal from there. Melvin Purvis-Special Agent in charge of the Chicago FBI office and John Dillinger capturer is a native son.
I suppose the most overlooked native son is artist William H. Johnson. I believe that the only reason Johnson wasn’t a major force in the Harlem Renaissance is that he’d already decamped to Europe where African Americans could thrive socially, economically and artistically in ways that they couldn’t back home. Certainly Johnson couldn’t feed his talent by remaining in our hometown.
I’ve walked the streets that I know for sure Johnson walked as well. He didn’t leave until he was eighteen years old and I also know that he walked the streets of our shared hometown under vastly different circumstances. Finally, it saddens me to know that if you did a “man on the street” interview in my hometown-nobody would know who William H. Johnson was-much less that he was born there.William H. Johnson (1901-1970)
William H. Johnson was one of the foremost African American artists of his generation. He lived and worked in New York, France and Denmark, and his style and subject matter were as wide ranging as his travels. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, he was strongly influenced by the Expressionists.
"....Johnson extended [the] inquiry into [his] ancestry and self to his art, as seen in several fascinating self-portraits...""...Johnson's intense colors and expressive painting technique catapult his self image into a modern aesthetic, one riddled with formal dichotomies and underlying emotions. Light years ahead of those somber self-portraits that lined the halls of the National Academy of Design and other American institutions, this introspective view....illustrates the talent behind the artist's demand for greater respect and recognition...."
Richard J. Powell, 'A Painter in the World: 1930-1938', Homecoming: The Art and Life of William H. Johnson.
I’m not a good enough writer to capture in words the feeling I had as a little boy when I was regaled with the stories of Melvin Purvis. He was always larger than life in my little mind because he was an FBI man. But not only an FBI man-the FBI man who “got” Dillinger. In truth, the diminutive southern lawyer was more Atticus Finch than Dirty Harry. He never fired at Dillinger but it didn’t matter to me. He was a reluctant celebrity who returned to our hometown and tried to settle into the small town lawyer-entrepreneur role and never comfortably did. He was a member of my fraternity-Kappa Alpha Order and a graduate of the University of South Carolina School of Law. A rather scripted and typical emergence of a southern gentleman.
Ok, so on to more pedestrian things. The Sundae House still purveys goodies that put most everything else in the fast food world to shame. We used to ride bikes up here and get burgers and milk shakes. They are still as good as they were when I was a child.
South of the Border-NOT worth the stop. Trust me on this.
I forgot to mention this Charleston street corner in my previous post. Freemasonry isn't a southern thing per se. There are Lodges all over the world. However, when I was a kid-every civic leader-business owner-judge-doctor-lawyer in my hometown was a Mason. The Masonic roots are deep in South Carolina.
No trip home would be complete without a dose of fried chicken. Bojangles does it as good as anyone. During our lunch-I was trying to get LFG to learn that great southern phrase..."tell your mamma an em I said hey". We are still working on it.

Have to gainsay you on South of the Border. If someone hasn't had the experience, you need to do it at least once, like Vegas. I grew up in Fairmont NC, about 15 miles away, and we were enthralled by the "Yankee" prices that Alan Schafer charged there. And even us rubes knew that we were in the presence of world class tacky; Myrtle Beach, Gatlinburg, and Helen GA all pale by comparison, but it was a shining oasis for Northern Moms & Dads with a carload of kids on the way to Florida.
ReplyDeleteI had occasion to meet Schafer (who also had a beer distributorship that covered the beach), and being a "cool" 17 year old asked how much it cost to get I-95 not to bypass SoB. He said "Son, I just showed them one year's gasoline sales tax total, not even the room and food taxes, and they couldn't redraw that map fast enough"
Charleston is a town much loved by me. I've spent many hours among the graves of our lost brethren. One summer, I bought dozens of...err...starry cross flags to put on the graves of confederate dead. That year I also snuck home small pieces of Fort Sumter brick.
ReplyDeleteOld John C. Calhoun, one of Yale's lost sons, is buried there. Though they named a college for him, I don't think he ever returned. The father of secessionism.
I always stay at the Mills House, where Robert E. Lee--and you--laid his head. I've taken in afternoon services at St. Michaels and danced, very drunkenly, during Spoleto.
My favorite days there, however, were spent gambling on board games at The Brick with the lads there and perusing the shops on King Street before getting drunk on champagne and fried brie at Poogan's porch.
My own ancestors were New England yankees who spread out along the Eastern seaboard in the 17th and 18th centuries before moving into the south. South Carolina was not one of those states, but I love it as though it were my own.
South Carolina is also where Old Pike once set the 33ยบ degree...and of that immortal geography, I shall say no more.
Cheers brother--one of my favorite posts yet.
You're right about boiled peanuts.It's one of my favorite Southern foods.To this day my yankee wife has never tried them. Say how old were you when you learned damn yankee was two words?
ReplyDeleteRe: the boiled peanuts. "You haven't lived till you've had these." I have tried them several different times and I thought I was gonna die each time: nasty stuff.
ReplyDeleteADG, great post...love the stories and memories; brings back some of my own from around 20 minutes ago...ate a pork chop biscuit and bo-rounds for breakfast this morning.
ReplyDeleteVery sorry to hear of the downfall of SoB, it used to be a unique spot. Yeah, we all heard about the "17 brand new Thunderbirds" the SC Highway Commissioners got, but since we assumed the corruption, the sales tax story actually made better sense. But then Schafer did Federal time for vote fraud, so...
ReplyDeleteAnd "The Beach" (mainly OD for us) is just a seawall of condos now, not even worth the trip. Charleston is still a gem, though
NC Jack...We owned with another family, an old wood frame beach house on the 2nd row in O.D. Classic old place...no air conditioning...big screened porch....great. I won't go near O.D. anymore 'cause I don't want to taint those memories.
ReplyDeleteMasonic Lodge......My grandfather examined his future son in law out in the cow pasture before giving his consent to his daughter's engagement.
ReplyDeleteDefinitely..."Old School, Old Guard Ironass", need more of it. I know that your dues are paid up. Enuff said.
ADG, how's this for a new "beach music" tune:
ReplyDelete"You Can't See the Ocean,
From Ocean Boulevard"
Sample verse: "Scoped out the ladies back in the day,
Now there's too many condos in the way"
I absolutely love reading about the G-men and all that is Purvis and Ness. The Untouchables was one of my favorite shows growing up. JEH was such a complete jerk - I mean seriously.
ReplyDeleteThank you for mentioning the boiled peanuts that I am now craving and do not have . . .
xoxo
xoxo
My apologies for the length of that comment. Got tight on gin last night and did some drunk-blogspotting. Eeeeeggghhhh
ReplyDeleteKSA
KSA...no apology needed...your comments were great.
ReplyDeletePreppy 101 ... Suffer no more. Go here and order a case of these canned boiled peanuts. They are 90% as good as fresh boiled ones. Trust me. I keep a case of these on hand at all times.
http://www.youngplantations.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?
WEBEVENT+L022B3A353851850087C904M+M37+ENG
NCJack....eggzackly why I don't go down there anymore.
AnonTexan...indeed.
Lovely pictures and stories, thanks for sharing!
ReplyDelete"I’m gonna stop right here on the speculation since I want to do another post on Melvin Purvis."
If you ever do that one, I'd really love to read it!
I'll do a Purvis post at some point.
ReplyDeleteYay! Looking forward to that.
ReplyDelete