Thursday, May 5, 2011

British Tan and Gingham

I’d say that spring is finally in full play around  my neighborhood and since it’s May 5th, that means that it’s gonna be no time before moderate temps become sweltering. I just have that feeling. The transitional weeks in the mid-Atlantic area generally don’t present too much of a sartorial dilemma. Like our neighbors farther south, we can generally don tropical weights of wool as well as poplin and linen fairly early. 
This year has been an exception though. We had a flurry of warmth and sunshine followed by rain and cold temps requiring sturdier swathings. Finally I’d had enough last week. By Friday last I’d squired seersucker, linen and tropical wool…all within five days. Enough is enough.
Bankers, lawyers and other professionals might better leave the gingham-British tan contrivance for the weekends. But pimps and healthcare strategists may wear such rigging any time. And so last week I did. This suit was bespoken in June 1991 so I figured a 20th birthday stroll was in order. The two-button, lower button stance reflects the decade of its making. I’d yet to settle into my standard ADG House Model at Flusser…my 3/2 single breasted peak lapel strategy.
I can’t rationalize my sartorial addictions. But my frail efforts to do so include gandering my 20 year old garments and seeing that generally, given minimal weight changes, the lines, the fit and the overall stature of the garment (not to mention its stunning owner) remain solid.
Paul Stuart tie and gingham shirt from The Andover Shop…the George Frazier-Charlie Davidson Mother Church of Trad. Vintage tie bar…askew.
You can read all you want about how to fold a pocket handkerchief. Please do. Read the Flusser pages on it. Then read Roetzel and whatever else you have on the shelf. Schedule fifteen extra minutes per morning devoted to getting it right. Then forget it. Grab the damn thing like a chicken about to experience neck-wringing. Say nothing. You need not sh_t talk your pocket square. 
Just treat it stridently so that ambiguity regarding who’s the daddy becomes non-existent. Then stuff the thing in your breast pocket.  Tweak it and pull a couple of the pointy bits up so that they barely preen, fern frond style and that’s it. If you spend more than 30 seconds on your pocket square you’re manifesting Von Noviceposeur Syndrome by Proxy.
Shodding this rig was a no brainer and these side gusseted giveaways look fine. But  after my Cleverley intervention last Friday, these things now seem to look more like blocks of wood than well cobbled slip-ons.
And finally, my Flusser Macintosh remained closeted forever. It seemed that whatever rain we’ve had over the last forever was more Barbour worthy than Mac manifest. But I’ve had more reason over the last three weeks to wear my FlussMac than I have in the last year.
Onward. Traveling. But home tonight.


Silk Regimental said...

You really put this one together nicely - thanks for the lesson. Lose the mac though - it spoils the whole image.

If you're wearing 20 y/o suits you've managed to keep the body in shape - congrats - I, on the otherhand have gone from formally a 30" waiste to a 36

Signed - Pizza the Hut

Anonymous said...

"Lose the mac though - it spoils the whole image."

How's this:

Let The Tide Pull Your Dreams Ashore said...

Loving the combo!

Anonymous said...

PS. Ain't nothin wrong with your side gusseted blocks of wood that one more break on top won't solve. So stop, repeat STOP, shoving shoe trees in there, and let another break take shape right at the tail of the gusset, just do it.

BLM said...

As a 25 year old, I thought I was doing well by still wearing gear from freshman year of college. But you're still trucking in 20 year old suits -- quite a feat to keep your figure and the structure of the suits in such good condition.

I've been reading your blog for over a year now, and I would love to see a post on clothing/shoe/accessory storage. I've got more gear than I know what to do with (as I'm sure you can understand) and I need some good ideas on how to keep it all in great shape whether in the closets, drawers, back of chairs, whatever.

Any insight would be invaluable...


Enzo AGC said...

Whiskey cordovans, stubbs and belgians photographed on a tribal rug out of Alexandria, VA means I know what the A stands for now.

First time in my life I wished I was an 8.

ilovelimegreen said...

I love that green gingham shirt - but you knew I would.
I wouldn't think the yellow tie and mac would work well together but indeed they do!

T said...

I give up. I just can't keep up anymore. I'm going to become a nudist.

ADG said...

T...don't become a nudist. Few people look better naked than clothed.

LimeGreener....The mac was an afterthought...I dressed, then realized it was raining...

BLM...thanks for the kind words. Honestly, genetics is a big part of the deal for me. Regarding clothing maintenance and storage etc...I could do a story on how NOT to treat your stuff.

Flohoho....that's a damn good idea re the gussets. I took them out of the trees when I got home last night. And I'm gonna leave them out in the yard for a day or two.


Silk Reggie...I can't lose the mac.'ve discerned now many things, not the least of which is how I at least partly, finance this boondoggle over here.

CeceliaMc said...

"T...don't become a nudist. Few people look better naked than clothed."

The mark of true fashionistos and fashionistas as opposed to we amateurs who merely like "pretty stuff".

You probably look at attractive people and DRESS them with your eyes.

Young Fogey said...

You and Will at A Suitable Wardrobe and your throwback-to-childhood Flusser yellow rainslickers.

Why not?

I'll stick with my MTM leather jobbie. Gray, of course—it's camouflage for the rain.

Ten more pounds and I'll fit in my 24-year-old suits again.

I think.

P.S.: Nice outfit! If you get sick of those shoes, well, you know who'll be eternally grateful to take them off your hands....

Anonymous said...

"You probably look at attractive people and DRESS them with your eyes."


T said...

Fashionisto? This is the part where I snicker like a snot-nosed teen.

CeceliaMc said...

"Fashionisto? This is the part where I snicker like a snot-nosed teen."

That's a "Beavis".

CeceliaMc said...

The mac goes nicely with the ease of the look.

If you had worn that gorgeous golden bow tie, then there would have been a problem